Napa Valley is a region dominant to Bordeaux varieties, so it’s befitting that many of the local producers grow Malbec. Most of the local production of this grape variety is used as a blending grape in Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and other Bordeaux blends. But for some, Argentinian Malbecs—or even small-production offerings from Cahors, France—are an inspiration for single varietal expressions.

As a grape that is blended into the powerhouse style of Cabernet for which Napa is known, it adds color, softens the palate, and offers dark fruit and cocoa flavors. These characteristics bring balance and roundness to Cabernet Sauvignon, even when added in small percentages. Alternatively, many producers have chosen to highlight this varietal in limited-production bottlings around the 500-case range, some of which are exclusive to wine club members or released only in great vintages—many of which sell out quickly.

Photo courtesy of Napa Cellars

A Warm Weather Friend

Due to the weather in Bordeaux, France, Malbec was only ever able to succeed as a blending grape. Malbec is a grape that grows well in warmer temperatures, which is not the norm in Bordeaux—hence why the grape was planted in Argentina and, over the years, succeeded greatly. Today, it is Argentina’s most important grape variety.

In the States, Napa Valley has become a prime location for Malbec because of its climate, and while the grape hasn’t become the significant variety that it is in Argentina, many local vintners have tapped into its greatness in Napa soils. In the region’s appellations with a bit of elevation, Malbec shows off nice acidity, and some of the most expressive bottlings of this varietal hail from hillsides around the Valley.

“We grow Malbec where we have elevated conditions with more shallow soils and slightly more difficult growing conditions,” said Emma Swain, CEO of St. Supéry Estate Vineyards & Winery. The estate uses Malbec as both a blending grape and as a single varietal. St. Supéry’s Malbec fruit comes from their estate-grown, sustainably farmed Dollarhide Ranch Vineyard, and in 2018, they crafted a total of 550 cases of Malbec that show off the grape’s alluring characteristics. “We go through the vineyard several times during the growing season and drop a significant amount of fruit on the ground to ensure great concentration of flavors,” Swain emphasized, and it shows.

St. Supéry Winery Entrance
Photo Credit Meg Smith

Another winery that is wisely producing elevation Malbec is Hess Persson Estates. “Our Malbec is grown predominately in our higher elevation vineyards, and this allows the grape to have very intense color and velvety concentration of tannins,” said Stephanie Pope, winemaker at Hess Persson Estates. Pope and her team utilize Malbec as a blending grape in their Cabernet Sauvignons and as a single varietal. As a blending grape with Cabernet, Malbec works to “balance the bold tannins of the mountain fruit creating an approachable wine earlier in its aging life,” Pope stated. It’s one of Napa’s tricks for making Cabernet enjoyable at a much younger age than is typical of the varietal.

Photo courtesy of Hess Persson Estates

At Pine Ridge Vineyards, their Malbec grapes are planted in two estate vineyards in the appellations of Los Carneros and Stags Leap District, both on the southern end of the Napa Valley. “Our estate vineyards in Carneros and the Stags Leap District allow this underappreciated Bordeaux variety to shine by providing it a cooler climate that it relishes, resulting in a juicy, floral rendition that best represents this inky colored variety,” said Joshua Mendoza Widaman, estate winemaker at Pine Ridge Vineyards. The grape is blended into their Cabernet Sauvignon and produced as a single varietal.

Photo courtesy of Pine Ridge Vineyards

Joe Shirley, winemaker at Napa Cellars, has worked with Malbec vines in Atlas Peak and Coombsville. He admitted that “although the later season warms up significantly [in Coombsville], its proximity to the bay ensures cool nights and longer hang time, which helps develop the color and tannin to make a full-bodied, well-structured and age-worthy red wine.” At this estate, the Malbec grapes are used for their Winemaker Series as a single varietal and as a blending component. Their Meritage, a blend of the noble Bordeaux varieties, comprises four out of five Bordeaux grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. The Malbec composes a significant portion of the blend at 20%, and the production for this limited wine is only 240 cases. Their single varietal Malbec hovers around the same lot size at 291 cases and is blended with a small 10% of Cabernet Sauvignon.

Shadybrook Estate is another producer who champions the Coombsville terroir as an excellent fit for Malbec. “Our Shadybrook Estate Coombsville vineyard provides that rocky, nutrient-rich soil with cooler mornings that slow to rise to the hot summer temperatures in Napa Valley. This provides a longer, more balanced ripening in the Malbec fruit,” said Kimberly, vice president of sales and marketing at Shadybrook Estate. Winemaker Rudy Zuidema harnesses the power of their Malbec for a single varietal expression and a blending grape in their iconic Bordeaux blend Estate V. This wine incorporates Malbec in the style of true Bordeaux blends, utilizing all five of the French ordained varieties in its production. “Taking the time and energy to grow a fantastic Malbec adds dimension to your Bordeaux program,” Bothwell stated, and many other local winemakers agree. For Shadybrook’s single varietal 2018 Malbec, there were only 148 cases produced, and they are currently sold out. For those interested, the 2019 Malbec will be released this September.

More to Come

As global climate change forces winemakers across the globe to consider their vineyards and varietals, one must wonder, will Malbec ever take a stronger hold in Napa soils? Local expressions prove the variety has something to show here—and not simply as a blending grape. Single varietal Napa Valley Malbec is balanced, rich in varietal character, and impressively crafted by the talented winemakers who have put their faith in the grape. The varietal is one of Napa’s best kept secrets. Shirley of Napa Cellars said it perfectly: “I think that while there are several areas in the Napa Valley that have produced excellent quality Malbec, the full potential for Malbec in Napa Valley has yet to be realized.” Wine enthusiasts who favor this varietal should keep their eye on Napa Valley Malbec, as only time will tell if there is more to come.